The response to my travel plans
to Papua New Guinea (PNG) ranged from shock to concern, but never any positive
reactions. This is the result of the reputation that has been built about PNG
by the media. While some of this is deserved and caution should be utilised
when visiting some regions of PNG, there are regions of beauty and peace that
are suffering as a result of general judgements. I visited the Milne Bay
Province of PNG in January and found the region to be full of friendly and
happy people and absent of any other foreigner.
Despite how wonderful it was to
be the only foreigner around and have the place to myself, the people of PNG
and Milne Bay could really use a bump in tourism and want to share the beauty
of their piece of the world. As I found it difficult to find information online
about accommodation, attractions and practicalities, I want to share my
experience.
Milne Bay includes the eastern
most part of main land PNG and the immediate surrounding islands. You must fly
to Alotau, the main town of Milne Bay, as all information available states that
it is not possible to drive from Port Moresby. Alotau itself is a small, one
main road type of town. There are “resorts” and “hotels” in Alotau and these
are generally the only ones for all of Milne Bay listed on TripAdvisor and
other such sites. However, there isn’t much to do in Alotau and there are no
white sandy beaches nearby. I highly recommend getting straight out of Alotau
and going to one of the many remote, authentic and stunningly located
guesthouses on an island. Visiting Moda at the Tourism Office in Alotau or
contacting him in advance (email: mkunuyobu86@gmail.com) can
help with that. They know where the guesthouses are located and how to get you
there.
Nuakata Island
Nuakata was the first island
visited, which has two guesthouses, Gadoa and Bomatu. To get to Nuakata Island,
you catch a Public Motor Vehicle (PMV) from the main stop in Alotau to East
Cape (10 Kina). Someone from the tourist office or a guide or the owner from
the guesthouse will accompany you. The trip in an overstuffed, oversized Ute takes
2 hours after an hour of driving around Alotau picking up everyone’s shopping
and fuel. Upon arrival in East Cape, a 45 minute dingy ride (30 Kina) will get
you across to Nuakata. Gadoa guesthouse, owned by Levi, is on the beach facing
East Cape, while Bomatu, owned by Beli, is on a beach further east.
Accommodation costs ~60 Kina a night plus meals (10 Kina breakfast; 15 Kina
lunch; 20 Kina dinner). Bomatu is in a nicer location with a better beach, but
the snorkelling at Gadoa is better.
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| Gadoa guesthouse |
Gadoa offers a day trip to Grace
Island (200 Kina + BYO 20 L fuel) which is a must do. Grace Island is a picture
perfect deserted island with white sandy beaches, crystal clear water and palms
trees. A freshly caught fish is cooked for your lunch.
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| Local boy from Gadoa guesthouse taking us to Grace Island |
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| Grace Island |
Bomatu offers a traditional
boat ride to Daiwali Island (20 Kina) where there is great snorkelling (10 Kina
to the locals) and a beautiful beach.
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| Daiwali Island |
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| Local boy on Daiwali Island |
Staying in the guesthouses
provide a local authentic experience. The accommodation is rough and the food
is locally grown, but will be the best the family can provide. There is no
electricity or running water and the days are spent resting in the shade or in
the water. Day to day life runs on “island time” and is slower. There is no
need to bring a watch, the roosters will make sure you are awake at sunrise and
when the sun goes down, you are exhausted from the heat and snorkelling and
swimming. The guesthouses will provide boiled water, but a water bottle is
required and buying extra water in Alotau is recommended (along with some
snacks).
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| Local transport between islands |
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| Kids of Bomatu guesthouse |
Along with water and snack, BYO
snorkelling gear including rash vest and pants (stingers may be present and the
sun is strong), towel, toilet paper, books/kindle, torch and patience.
 |
| Sunset from Gadoa guesthouse |
Information about all the
activities at these guesthouses and a few others in Milne Bay can be found
here: http://www.flinders.edu.au/science_engineering/research/caab/events.cfm
